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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.